Scientists Break Down Exactly How Kelly Slater’s Wave Pool Works | The Inertia

It’s pretty complex.

Put a surfer and a non-surfing fluid mechanics engineer in front of Kelly Slater’s coveted Surf Ranch wave in all its glory, and you’ll likely get two wide-eyed dudes looking like kids in a candy store. For as perfect as the wave is from a surf perspective, it’s also a feat of modern engineering, replicating the properties of ocean waves down to specifically designed bottom-contours.

Recently, Science put together this little video package on the mechanics of Kelly’s wave, and as you can imagine to develop a wave of the quality the winningest surfer in the world would put his name on was a complex task.

Check out the full feature in Science here.

Fonte: Scientists Break Down Exactly How Kelly Slater’s Wave Pool Works | The Inertia

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